Guide · 9 min read · Updated September 2026

How to Compare Cash Offers on Your House (Without Getting Fooled)

Two offers on the same house, $10,000 apart on the headline price, and the lower one pays you more. This happens constantly, because cash offers are quoted on price and settled on net proceeds, and everything in between is negotiable, variable, or buried in the contract. Here is the exact way to lay two or three offers side by side and see which one is really the best.

Write down seven lines for every offer

Take a sheet of paper and give every offer the same seven lines: purchase price, service or program fee, which closing costs the buyer pays, which closing costs you pay, any repair credit or holdback, any outstanding liens or payoffs handled at closing, and days to close. Subtract everything below the price from the price. That final figure is your net proceeds, and it is the only number worth comparing.

This sounds obvious and almost nobody does it. Sellers compare the two prices, pick the bigger one, and find out at the closing table that the winner deducted a 6 percent program fee and a $9,000 repair credit while the other buyer was paying all closing costs and taking the house as-is.

If a buyer will not give you every one of those seven lines in writing before you sign, that is your answer about the buyer.

The seven-line worksheet
#Line to get in writingWhy it moves the number
1Purchase priceThe only figure most sellers compare, and the least reliable on its own
2Service or program feeiBuyers commonly deduct 5 to 10 percent; most local investors charge none
3Closing costs the buyer paysSeveral thousand dollars on a $250,000 sale, and entirely negotiable
4Closing costs you payAsk which specific line items, in writing, not “it’s standard”
5Repair credit or holdbackWhere a strong offer quietly becomes a weaker one after inspection
6Liens or payoffs handled at closingChanges what actually reaches your account
7Days to closeCarrying costs commonly run $400 to $1,200 a month while you wait

Subtract lines 2 through 6 from line 1. That figure, not the purchase price, is what you compare between offers.

The fee line is where the categories diverge

iBuyers charge a service fee deducted from your proceeds, commonly 5 percent at Opendoor and 6 to 10 percent at Offerpad depending on market and property. That fee is the price of a near-retail offer on a house in good condition, and it is disclosed up front.

Local investors and franchise buyers like HomeVestors generally charge no fee at all. Their compensation is baked into a lower purchase price, typically 50 to 80 percent of after-repair value depending on the buyer and the condition of the house. Neither structure is more honest than the other. They just put the money in different places, which is exactly why comparing headline prices across the two categories is meaningless.

Closing costs are not standard, and they are worth thousands

In a cash sale, who pays title insurance, escrow or closing fees, transfer taxes, recording fees, and any HOA transfer fee is entirely a matter of what the contract says and what is customary in your state. On a $250,000 sale the total can run several thousand dollars, and a buyer who pays all of it is effectively offering you that much more than one who splits it.

Ask one direct question of every buyer: which line items do you pay and which do I pay. Then put the answer on the worksheet. Any buyer who answers vaguely, or says it is standard, should be asked again in writing.

Read the inspection or due diligence clause before anything else

This clause is how a strong offer becomes a weaker one two weeks after you sign. It gives the buyer a window to inspect and then renegotiate or cancel based on what they find. The iBuyers build it into their process explicitly. Many local investors use a 7 to 14 day due diligence period for the same purpose.

A due diligence clause is not a red flag on its own, because no serious buyer commits sight-unseen. What matters is the length of the window and how tightly the renegotiation right is written. A 7 day inspection with a defined repair threshold is normal. A 30 day window that lets the buyer cancel for any reason is an option on your house, not a sale, and it costs you a month of selling time if they walk.

Check the earnest money, because it prices their seriousness

Earnest money goes into escrow at the title company and is credited to you at closing, or forfeited if the buyer walks without cause. The common standard is roughly 1 percent of the purchase price, often landing between $1,000 and $5,000.

An offer backed by $100 or $500 of earnest money is not really an offer. It is a free option to walk away, and if they exercise it you have lost three weeks of selling time and gained almost nothing. When two offers are close on net proceeds, the one with real earnest money is the better deal, because it is more likely to actually close.

Find out whether the buyer intends to close or to assign

Some buyers sign your contract planning to assign it to another investor before closing rather than buying the house themselves. This is legal and extremely common, and done honestly it can still get you a fine result. Done dishonestly, it means the buyer shops your contract, and if nobody takes it at their markup, they walk.

Ask directly: are you closing on this yourself, or assigning it. Then look for the assignment clause in the contract and see whether the answer matches. A buyer who closes with their own funds will tell you so plainly and will not object to proof of funds. If a contract is assignable and the earnest money is tiny, you are carrying almost all of the risk.

Days to close is a real number, not a detail

If you are carrying a mortgage, insurance, utilities, and taxes on a house you are trying to leave, every extra week costs actual money, frequently $400 to $1,200 a month all in. An offer that closes in 10 days versus one that closes in 45 is worth more than the price difference on a lot of houses.

The same math runs the other direction. If you need 60 days to find your next place, a buyer who gives you a flexible move-out date is worth paying for, and that is exactly what a company like Offerpad is selling with its longer close window.

The comparison only works if you have something to compare

All of this is worthless with one offer in hand. A single number cannot be evaluated, only accepted or refused, which is precisely why nearly every company in this industry is built to be the only offer you get.

Get two or three. It costs nothing, no legitimate buyer will pull their offer because you compared it, and the spread between the first offer and the best offer on the same house in the same week is routinely five figures. Run the seven lines on each, then sign the one that pays you the most and is most likely to close.

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Common questions

How do I compare cash offers for my house?

Compare net proceeds, not purchase price. For each offer, subtract the service fee, the closing costs you are responsible for, any repair credit or holdback, and any payoffs from the purchase price. Then weigh days to close and the size of the earnest money deposit, since both affect what you actually keep and whether the deal closes at all.

Is the highest cash offer always the best one?

No. A higher price with a 6 percent program fee, a repair credit, and split closing costs frequently nets less than a lower as-is offer with no fee and the buyer paying all closing costs. It is common for the second-highest headline offer to be the best deal on the settlement statement.

What should I ask a cash buyer before accepting?

Ask for proof of funds, ask whether they are closing themselves or assigning the contract, ask which closing costs they pay, ask the length of the inspection or due diligence period and what triggers a renegotiation, and ask how much earnest money they are putting into escrow. A buyer doing real volume answers all five without hesitating.

Can I ask cash buyers to beat each other's offers?

Yes. Telling a buyer you have another offer at a specific number is normal and expected in this industry, and serious buyers will either improve their terms or tell you honestly that they cannot. No legitimate buyer withdraws over it, and any buyer who pressures you not to compare is the one to walk away from.

How many cash offers should I get?

Three is the practical sweet spot. One offer gives you nothing to judge it against, two tells you whether the first was in the range, and three gives you a reliable read on what the house is worth to the cash market. Past three, the added information drops off quickly.

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Honest head-to-head comparisons against the national buyers, plus what we could independently verify about individual local companies.

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See how this plays out in your market

The principles above apply everywhere, but the actual numbers (median price, days on market, buyer competition) shift by city. Here is what to expect in each market on our directory:

Why trust this guide

Written by Drew Heberer, a working real estate investor based in Iowa with direct cash purchase experience across the Midwest and Southwest. Guides reflect actual transaction patterns, not marketing copy. Not legal or tax advice; always verify your specific situation with a licensed professional.

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